Llangollen

Excellent Eglwseg and lovely Llangollen

25th October 2008.

Map: Landranger 117

Weather: Overcast but dry all morning

Llangollen to Castell Dinas Bran, down and across to Offa’s Dyke Path. Walk to World’s End. Cross the valley and up to Fron-lwyd around to the Foel plantation. Down to the Eglwyseg River and up the other side, follow the paths through the forest and then minor roads back to Llangollen: 13.8 miles as measured with Stuart’s very accurate PDA/GPS with memory map.

I was very lucky this weekend as the weather was very kind to me. On Friday I had a little stroll around Beeston Castle in Cheshire, lunch at the Pheasant Inn and all in glorious sunshine. I decided to give the golf a miss this weekend and called Stuart to see if he fancied some company. We discussed the weather forecast and agreed that it looked decidedly grim for the north west of the country. As we are both based in the north west, we prepared for the worst and assumed we would be wearing waterproofs from start to finish and wringing out wet gear later. But all was not lost, as I looked at the local forecast on the BBC, I noticed that the Welsh borders around Wrexham appeared to have a hole in the inclement weather. So we discussed a walk around the Llangollen area, one up on the Llantysilio Mountains and the other following the Offa’s Dyke path along a limestone escarpment. We decided to make a decision when we arrived as to which route to take. But as Stuart had a bad experience when he walked on Offa’s Dyke path previously, I wanted to walk along the limestone escarpment to change his mind a little bit. We drove down and arrived in good time at the car park across the river in Llangollen, and it was lucky we arrived relatively early as there was a canoeing slalom event taking place. The car park was filling up quickly and we were lucky to get a space. We had some odd looks as we booted up as in ‘You’ll never fit in a canoe’, but generally everyone was busy getting ready for the rapids, and we rapidly departed - £2 for the day parking – a bargain.

All the gates were ready for the canoeists

The Shropshire Union Canal (Llangollen Branch)

The route begins by crossing the River Dee and walking up through the town. The River was running fast and strong and I suppose that’s why they hold the event at this time of year. The path up to Castell Dinas Bran was diverted around the school and gradually climbs out of Llangollen up a small track, before crossing a grassy field towards the steeper slopes of Castell Dinas Bran.

Looking down to Llangollen

Castell Dinas Bran high upon the hill

Getting higher and the view to the north

The castle towers high above the Dee Valley and the bustling town of Llangollen, home of the International Eisteddfod. A rugged, foreboding hillock of about 1000ft was the ideal spot to erect a castle. It must have seemed completely impenetrable, commanded views for miles around, and offered quick recognition of any approaching baddies, whether friend or enemy. Stuart speculated what it must have been like to have walked up here in a suit of armour – hard work we both surmised, and that the defenders would merely give a little shove and the baddies would be back down at the foot of the hill. It was the site of an Iron Age fort, and some of the earthworks can still be seen today. The native Welsh princes of Powys who occupied this splendid site only lived here for 20 odd years before the whole place was burnt out - maybe he got fed up of having no guests? We spent a little time wandering amongst the ruins and taking in the views from all compass points and pondered whether we would stay dry or not.

The view from the top to the north west

The ruins clad in a very un-fetching green scaffolding

Moving around to the path down

Looking back to Castell Dinas Bran

After walking around to the east side of the hill we descended steeply down the flank of the hill and crossed a field over to a little used minor road. This led us to the Offa’s Dyke path which runs in a northerly direction, and we followed it until we reached World’s End. After a couple of miles walking along the single track road the path gradually ascends on a rough track passing by Rock Farm, and then narrowing as it follows the contours below the limestone crags. When this route was first walked it must have been fairly treacherous across the scree slopes for sometime, before a path became established. It is narrow and we had to walk in single file, but as we ascended the views to the valley below and the crags above were marvellous. There is a sign warning that climbing restrictions are in force during the protected birds nesting season, and that you shouldn’t climb up the Monk’s Buttress or Craig Arthur either – between February and June. Mind you they look steep enough from down on the path, so we didn’t bother! It looks like there are some impossibly steep paths up the scree slopes to take a short cut to the top of the crags and up to Egylwseg Mountain.

Offa’s Dyke path follows the road

Up and away from the road the path narrows

Looking to the west and our route back across the valley

It was a pleasure to walk along below the escarpment, and we continued to gaze at the lovely autumnal colours, and a dramatic sky with some weird shaped clouds high up. As we got higher up the slopes it became windier, but at least the rain was holding off – it was a three layer day for me, so not too wintry yet. There were some nasty looking toadstools along the way, bright red and none to appetising and not surprisingly very little else was flowering. The tall mast on Cyrn-y-brain came into view as the path veered around towards World’s End, and that was meant to be our destination. But as it looked so nice down at World’s End we decided to drop down into the valley and follow a farm track from the old manor house, chopping a mile or so off our route - we justified this by being out of the chill wind for a bit longer. The old manor house here has been restored and is in a perfect setting at the head of the valley, although possibly a little remote in the depths of winter.

The tall mast on Cyrn-y-brain

The acorn sign indicates Offa’s Dyke path

Looking back along the path

The manor house at World’s End

The woods at Worlds End – Offa’s Dyke goes north from here

We thought we had a path up the valley to higher ground, but a little trespass was required across by the stables of the manor. But we didn’t disturb anyone or anything and passed by on tiptoes to avoid making any noise – luckily they didn’t release the dogs, and we didn’t hang around just in case. The gradient was not too bad and we made our way up towards the cottage of Fron lwyd on a regular footpath now moving to the west, with the sky still looking threatening but the rain holding off. It was a pleasure to walk along the soft grass tracks and they were remarkably dry considering the autumn we have had, with the bracken dry and brittle and a beautiful russet colour. The cottage at Fron lwyd looks like it belongs to the manor house judging by the paint job, and it has been sympathetically renovated. The only problem was that the path that legally crosses their garden isn’t very well marked, but it goes up around the back of the house and there is a stile. We stood in the garden and took a breather, gazing back towards our outward route beneath the impressive limestone bluff. There was a lovely aroma of bacon butties as well from the open kitchen window, and the occupants looked a bit surprised to see us standing there. So I gave a cheery wave and we made our way up to the top of the hill. We were some way below the mast on Cyrn-y-brain but were back on our original route. It was windy enough up here and definitely chillier, but the path ahead was easy and grassy.

The farm track up from the manor house

Looking back to the limestone escarpment from Fron-lwyd

The path winds away to the left and then around to the woods across the valley

Lovely soft grass

The old forestry ride

Looking back up to Cyrn-y-brain mast

We wound around the contours, through a few sheepfolds and then made our way over the fields to the Foel Plantation. The path through the woods was pretty rough but was marked on the OS map as a route. That’s the problem with plantation paths and tracks; they tend to change over the years, with new routes taking over the old routes, and the old routes becoming overgrown. But after a series of climbs and limbos, over and under fallen trees we emerged intact, if a little ragged, after sliding down onto a real forest ride. Some of the gorse bushes lining the route were still in bright yellow flower, but the fragrance was missing. We made our only miss of the day when we carried on along the track we were on instead of cutting back to take a lower path. We did venture over the edge and found a lower overgrown track, but this was a mistake and we both slithered and slid back up to the upper track. The only route now available now was to double back on ourselves as the forest ride dropped back to the path we should have been on in the first place. But I didn’t attach any blame whatsoever to Stuart who was carrying his GPS! That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it.

Flowering gorse along side the track

The steep path down to the valley bottom

And the view from getting up the other side

The nature of the landscape around these hills meant that any drop down to the valley is met by an equally steep little rise up the other side – but the plus side is that it is all easy on the eye and today was a lovely mix of terrain to walk across. Once out of the plantation we dropped down across fields to cross over the Eglwyseg river and then faced a stiff little climb up to Hendre, just what was needed towards the end of the walk! We disturbed a Red Kite which circled around and then flew off to higher ground. But there was a silver lining for us as a handy bench appeared with splendid views back across the valley. We decided to maintain the height we had gained and forego the pleasure of seeing Eliseg Pillar (the base of a cross that originally was much taller - six metres according to some (extravagant) estimates - but all that remains now is about a third of that, surmounting a mound in a field beside the road. The cross takes its name from an inscription which used to be clearly visible on the shaft, but which can no longer be seen. That inscription told how Cyngen, the last king of Powys, erected the cross during the early ninth century to commemorate his great-grandfather king Eliseg, who had won Powys from the English by force of arms. Fortunately, that inscription was transcribed before it became too weathered. We also viewed the Valle Crucis Abbey remains from high, and they are nestled next to a caravan park – lovely!

The Valle Crucis Abbey, with caravans snuggled up on the right!

Castell Dinas Bran

Thomas steaming away quietly

Once we emerged from the trees making ground towards Llangollen, Castell Dinas Bran came back into view and it looked just as steep as this morning. I was hoping that the canoeing was still ongoing. Thomas the tank engine was puffing away in the station yard (it actually had a Thomas face on the front), and the bridge was crowded with onlookers. So we stopped and tarried awhile as the canoeists prepared upstream. I was amazed to see the standby team getting into place, a couple of guys by the riverside in safety harnesses, and two in small extremely buoyant canoes by the bridge parapets. What amazed me was that none of them were wearing gloves – they must have had very little feeling left in their hands. We waited 5 or 10 minutes for the first competitor to come flying down, and fly he did, riding the big waves and plunging down the rapids.

The first canoeist slaloms by

He must have been absolutely freezing

Rather them than me, so we returned to the car just as the first raindrops began to fall. The most amazing thing today was that we walked for 5 hours and didn’t get a drop of rain, whereas 100 miles to the north they had a month’s rainfall dumped on them in a day. Lucky, lucky me……BBC weather forecasts….sometimes they’re brilliant!

My GPS – but only good for short walks!

Tryfan and the Glyderau

Terrific Terrifying Tryfan and the Glyderau

Date: 28th July 2008.
Map: Landranger 115
Weather: Warm sunshine with some cloud and mist on nearby peaks.

A Tryfan scramble followed by a ridge walk, up to Glyder Fach then on to Glyder Fawr, down to the Devils Kitchen and then up to Y Garn. Down the ridge to Llyn Idwal and return to the start: 7 miles on the map, but it feels like 20 miles the next day


Well I woke up this morning with the Manchester blues – yes it was absolutely throwing it down. So I wondered if the forecast I saw yesterday was correct, but as I wanted a good walk I went anyway. Lucky for me I ignored the rain on the way and when I arrived it was still a little misty around the summits, but the sun was shining. There are plenty of parking spaces alongside Llyn Ogwen, all free and you have a choice where to start the route from. I parked about halfway along Llyn Ogwen so I had a gentle warm up at the beginning and a nice flat stroll at the end. One thing you don’t want at the end of a hard day is an uphill finish, so be careful how you plan your walks. The first thing I saw today was a jet screaming along just above the surface of Llyn Ogwen and throwing itself around the corner of the valley. A local out for a bike ride stopped and told me that they often dip down just as they pass the end of the lake. That must be an awesome sight as it looks almost impossible to do it at those speeds.
I walked along the roadside a little way before I came to a path over the wall. This crossed a boulder field and with hindsight it would have been easier just walking along to the base of the Milestone Buttress and walking up beside the wall. All the time I was walking along the bulk of Tryfan looms above with his head in the clouds. It definitely is a ‘he’ as there is nothing dainty about this beast. There are some things to note if you fancy doing this walk – you will need a head for heights, be strong enough for a sustained climb, be able to scramble and climb a little, you will need to pull yourself up a couple of times and have some stamina. All in all it is not an easy route. If in doubt you can take an easier route up to the south side and access the peak from there, although that also involves some steep sections. Have a look at www.youtube.com and search for Tryfan, and then look at the North Ridge video. That will give a feel for this walk (climb really). My route today took me directly up the north ridge once I had crossed over the boulder field. There is a ladder stile in the wall and form there the path quickly ascends beneath the huge buttress.


Looking up to Tryfan from the road


The view back down to the road before the paths diverge

I spent a lot of time today with arm stretched out to steady myself, and that will give you some idea of how steep this is, with much of the time is spent with three points of contact, and plenty of four points of contact. At times the ground ahead is within touching distance of your hands, and every time I looked back and down to the valley road, the road never got any further away – apart from vertically. As I made steady progress I saw a party of about 6 gents starting out below me, which gave me some incentive to get to the top first. The wind was blowing today, but thankfully for me it was sheltered on the north ridge. The path diverges after a little while and goes off to the left to the Heather Terrace path that runs up along the east side of Tryfan for access to the south peak. I took the path heading straight up – the first of many gulps!


Some airy hairy scrambles ahead


Yikes and I’m not even a third of the way yet

One of the hardest things today was deciding which was the best route up as there are several alternatives on the way. My criteria was that if it looked impossibly steep, it probably was. I found myself up a steep rockface once or twice and had to retrace my steps to find an alternative way up. But there was no getting away from a few good scrambles. They certainly make the adrenaline flow and that helped me keep going. I would have hated to have to go back down – too steep a descent. I tended to follow any well worn paths / smooth rocks and I didn’t go too far wrong. There are flat ledges periodically along the way as you gain height and I took the time to admire the views and put an extra top on to keep warm.


A glimpse of the summit now free of mist


Guess what this one is called? Y Garn in the background


I think a move to the left is in order

A good landmark to know you are on the right track is ‘The Cannon’, a rock splinter leaning over at an acute angle. There is some interesting Geology to see on the way up these slopes, with plenty of volcanic rocks. Most obvious are the quartzite veins, sparkling white in the sunshine and providing a good rough surface for my boots to grip on. Looking up above the cannon is a large boulder seemingly wedged in by a smaller stone – I moved away to the left just in case. A little higher up the gradient ease before the final pull to the top of Tryfan. This notch gave a welcome breather and a chance to appreciate the surroundings without fear of falling off anywhere. The road below still didn’t appear any further away from me horizontally, but vertically was a different story. I was still ahead of the nearest group to me, but only just and I was like the Duracell Bunny today – just kept on going. I imbibed deeply and carried on for the top, one final climb. I looked around for an easy route but there weren’t any, so it was up and over – plenty of good handholds but a little scary in places. I passed by a couple of very steep gullies that come up from the sides, and one of these has to be crossed and climbed up and over. Then the top comes into view and you know the worst of the day is over (nearly) and what views.


One last scramble to the top – which way to go?


The gully to the east side – crossed from the left and up to the right


It was so steep and that road is still close by


The north summit – Adam and Eve in site


Only me – I was so used to the slope on the way up I couldn’t stand straight!

I scrambled over from the north peak to get to the Adam and Eve pillars just before the rest of the crowd! It took me 2 hours of strenuous effort to get here, but the views were fabulous. The top had cleared of cloud and although a little hazy around I could see clearly the Carneddau to the north, with fantastic views of Llyn Ogwen far, far below me. The summit was a massive jumble of splintered boulders, mostly of a huge size that made for careful walking. The two pillars of Adam and Eve almost look like they have been planted there for the tradition of jumping from one to the other. The gap between them is little more than a stride, but if you don’t watch out the drop to the east side is enormous, so don’t be too cocky! The next part of my journey was across the bouldery top to the Far South Peak and then down to the col of Bwlch Tryfan.


The view across to Bristly Ridge from the Far South Peak


The view down over Cwm Bochlwyd and over to Glyder Fawr

The slopes down off Tryfan were steep and did require a little scramble but nothing like the ascent of the north ridge. Once I was down at the col, I had a good drink and a snack for some energy, and chatted with a family who were thinking about going up Tryfan. The boys gave me a look that said "Don’t say anything that will put Mum off", so I did my best to reassure them that if they took their time they would be OK. I did see the rescue Helicopter later in the day, but that was the other side of the valley so I didn’t feel guilty. There is a confluence of paths here, but my route ahead beside the Bristly Ridge was clear enough. I let the group of 6 gents go ahead of me and get some distance away, as I didn’t want a face full of scree as I followed them up.


Bristly ridge up to Glyder Fach ahead – the path is up the left side


Tryfan from Bristly Ridge, a great view back with the Carneddau beyond


Cresting the ridge up to Glyder Fach – Tryfan starts to disappear

It was a stiff climb up the side of the ridge and I stopped frequently to catch my breath and look back to Tryfan. It looked as good from the south side as from the north side, like an upturned ice cream cone, almost alpine in nature. As I crested the rise up to Glyder Fach the Snowdon range came into view and although it was misty, I could recognise the Snowdon horseshoe route. From this aspect Crib Goch looked a lot steeper than I remember when I was up there, but at least I could finally get some shots of Snowdon itself without it’s cloud covering. The summit of Glyder Fach is a mass of shattered rock which spike up skyward. Just before I reached the summit I passed by the famous ‘cantilever rock’. I couldn’t find the adjustment for my self timer, so had to content myself with a shot looking back with someone else on it. They are massive slabs of rock up here, so I climbed up and found myself a sheltered spot with a view and had a good break for lunch. It was very peaceful up here, broken only by the sight of a purple thong that hove into view as a couple came past. I didn’t have the heart to shout out "I can see your knickers" and my camera wasn’t quick enough to get a shot – and no, I didn’t try too!


The famous Cantilever Stone – it’s huge


It would take a rugby team to topple this – don’t try it!


The view back to Tryfan from my lunch break – very bright light now


The path ahead towards Glyder Fawr

After a well earned rest, I scrambled back down off the summit to something resembling a path – a faint light coloured track across the stony ridge. Snowdon now dominated my view and although hazy it was getting nearer and clearer. The walk along the ridge was easy, but tough on the feet as constant walking on rough ground takes its toll. Stone cairns marked the way ahead and as I got closer to Glyder Fawr (5m higher than Glyder Fach) the landscape started to resemble a moonscape. It was a mass of vertically pointing, ice shattered rock splinters, glinting in the bright sunlight. It gave a good focal point with Snowdon in the background, and if you buy the landranger map, you will see the front cover picture is similar. I passed by the side of Castell y Gwynt on the way towards the summit on the south side as the north side isn’t too inviting! I suppose you could go over the top if you had the energy.


Looking back towards Castell y Gwynt and Glyder Fach


The Snowdon horseshoe


The moonscape towards the summit of Glyder Fawr


Looking back to Glyder Fach


Three penguins looking at Snowdon – see the landranger map cover


The scree slope down to Llyn y Cwn and Y Garn beyond

From this point down the hillside was a massive scree slope and not great for walking down. It was very steep and loose in places, but as before the views more than made up for the shortcomings. Down below me was the small lake of Llyn y Cwn, with the apply named Devil’s Kitchen to the right. I had planned to drop down the path from the Devil’s Kitchen and return from there, but I wasn’t paying attention and was enjoying myself so much, I ended up walking up to Y Garn – whoops. I made it down the slope, and could hear the group of 6 chattering away behind me. There were a few people around the small lake having a picnic, and sharing it with a few midges. They weren’t really bothersome as they are in the West Highlands of Scotland at this time of the year. The path continued up the side of Y Garn and although it was an ascent of over 700ft, it felt quite gentle after the hard work earlier on. I made the summit in one go, as the path gently zigzagged along the upper slopes. I could hear the Snowdon train gently chugging away across the valley, but it was still too misty to see properly. It was at this point that it dawned on me that I had climbed a mountain too far – another Wallace and Grommit moment – it’s the wrong mountain lad! But the views more than made up for it, a whole panorama of Snowdonia. I met a German couple here who didn’t have a map and the lady didn’t like going down steep paths – oops. So I showed them the lay of the land, and they showed me their little pamphlet with a picture of the hills on and told me where I was – who was I to argue! I knew where I was because all the Llyns and valleys were laid out beneath my feet. There was a fantastic view back down to the Ogwen valley, with my car a microscopic spec in the distance.


Tryfan still poking his head above the slopes, the Carneddau beyond


Y Garn tempts me with her charming curves – walk this way sir


A panorama of today’s walk – you know Tryfan by now


Snowdon in a ray of sunlight


Tremendous views down the valley


And now the car was far below and away by Llyn Ogwen

The path down from Y Garn to the valley below is long and steep, but a jogger came running past, so it wasn’t that bad. On the lower slopes there are large bags of stones that have been dropped off by helicopter, to repair the path at sometime in the future when they have the funds to do so. The route down here is as steep as the drop down the Devil’s Kitchen and ends up at the shores of Llyn Idwal.


Bags of boulders for path maintenance


Devils Kitchen – Gordon Ramsey is nowhere to be seen


Pen yr Ole Wen across the Ogwen valley


Tryfan showing the whole of the north ridge – left to right


The route down from Y Garn – from Llyn Idwal – spot the white bags


If you’re in a jet turn right here – quick

As the various paths converged, so did a steady stream of walkers – some kitted out for a full blown Everest expedition and others with cardigans and flip-flops on. As I dropped down into Idwal Cottage over the stream, another jet roared by in spectacular fashion, a nice tribute to my great days walking. I bought myself an ice cream and a fizzy drink and meandered along the A5 towards the car park.


Guess who? Begins with ‘T’

Tryfan once again dominated my viewpoint and I smiled as I thought about the scrambles of this morning. Another challenge ticked off and for a change clear views from the top. The next day my legs and shoulders felt like I’d been down at the Gym all day, but with walking like this, who needs the Gym? This isn’t just any hill this is a walking, scrambling, climbing hill – it’s all brilliant.