The Dragon's Back

The Dragon’s Back

15^th November 2009

Map: Landranger 119

Weather: A short shower, followed by intermittent sunshine

From Earl Sterndale over to Glutton Grange farm, along to Dowel Dale and return via Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill: 4.5 miles by Satmap Active 10 gps

Copywright OS - click on map to enlarge, use back arrow to return to blog

It was a late decision to drive over to the Peak District for a quick stroll, and the weather forecast wasn’t too bad. Despite that there were a few rain clouds hanging around us at the start, but they were soon gone. I hadn’t been down this way since ‘freaking out’ as an eight year old. We walked up Parkhouse Hill with the old fella, ma, and brothers. We got halfway up the flank of the hill (this was in the days before good access was allowed) and I had to go back down with my ma. To this day when I’m high up on a grassy summit – I mean over a couple of thousand feet – I tend to get a little closer to the ground. I don’t know why as I’m OK on rocks over vertical drops, but grass? I digress; it was only 35miles to drive here, about 1hr through the White Peak, so I was relaxed before the start – no rush to get the miles done for an early start. We had Robbo to lead the way today, and it made a nice change to the usual testosterone fuelled ridge walks in the Lakes or Scotland – not a Wainwright or a Munro or anything else in sight. Ironically the walk started from the church in Earl Sterndale opposite the local pub – ‘The Quiet Woman’.

A confused start – back through the yard – Earl Sterndale church behind

The Dragon’s Back peeking above the pasture

Our route ahead was up the dry valley to the right

Above the farm we head up along farm tracks

We walked around the back of the pub and took the wrong path through a gate, passing some rusty old ironmongery and terriers in a cage. But Robbo soon corrected the route and we dropped back down the field and made a left turn. The rain started to patter down on the surrounding bits of metal, and it was the usual story of stopping, and on with the waterproofs. We were tempted to have a race on a discarded scooter, but the ground was too boggy. The shower didn’t last long, and to celebrate out came a rainbow bowing down gracefully over Parkhouse Hill – a good sign for me. As in much of the White Peak area most of the land is grazing and at this time of year is limited to grass and not much else. The occasional hawthorn tree can be seen, with a patch or two of gorse dotted around. Despite the two sharp hills of the Dragon’s Back, today’s walk was quite a gentle affair as long as you were ok with heights – smallish heights, but steep drops. We made our way over the side of Hitter Hill and reached the farm at Glutton Grange by a swift U-turn along the fence – and the ladies talked....

The ladies

Gentle ascent through the fields

Looking over to Chrome Hill from Dowel Dale

Dowel Dale ahead

The ground wasn’t too bad and once Robbo was into his stride the way ahead was clear. Through the farmyard at Glutton Grange we walked through a gate to the right of a drystone wall and up a gentle ascent of a dry valley called Hatch-a-way, and the ladies talked....Up at the top of the valley we came out on to open land and made a turn left up along a muddy path – a good day for gaiters, with blue skies ahead. There was more gentle ascent up the farm track and out along the grassy fields, and we had a good view over to the Dragon’s Back – Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill. I quite like walking at this time of the year, dry and cool, with low sunlight adding a gentle glow to the hills. It helps to bring out the geomorphology of the landscape and all the lumps and bumps. We are blessed to have a long history that stretches back thousands of years and there is always something that catches the eye when out and about. Derbyshire has much medieval history – old field patterns, ridge and furrow, and some older pre-history as well with burial cairns, stone circles amongst others – Arbor Low and Minning Low are probably two of the best.

The road near Owl Hole

Plenty of choice of routes

Looking back over Tor Rock with High Edge behind

We continued across the pasture and looking across to Chrome Hill we could see a crocodile line of people stood at the summit. At Dowel Dale we dropped steeply down a grassy slope to the roadside and squinted into that rare thing – bright sunlight. Here we were passed by a couple in a rangerover, map in hand and looking flustered. They passed us twice more looking for the way ahead – that reminded me of my folks who were always looking for the road to Flash and a grey telephone box – they never could find it too easily. Nearly 40 odd years ago the access was via farm gates, and it was in and out of the car to open and shut gates as we went along. The valley was quiet and like many small dales here – steep sided along a narrow dale, and the road steadily climbed up towards higher ground at Owl Hole – a hole to trap Owls? The air had cleared by the time we reached open ground and we could see far to the north – well as far as the High Peak at Edale. High Edge was also prominent, but up on the top the landscape is a little bleak, and in winter time it is very cold at times. There were signs of old lime kilns dotted around, but only the arches at the base of the kilns were left, the left of the stonework probably robbed away to build something else. We walked past the lost couple again, still looking puzzled, and we diverted off the road to walk towards Chrome Hill.

Chrome Hill ahead

A bit of quiet in the valley

Plenty of people coming down from the top of Chrome Hill

The chatter turned to all manner of pills and cures, and I’m sure I could hear a collective rattling with the amount consumed every day. I still think that fruit pastilles are a perfect vitamin supplement! Robbo reckoned that he took so many Cod Liver Oil supplements in various disguises that his legs go wobbly. He also showed me his Geocache coins & travel bug that he was going to place in one of the two caches to find today – an interesting hobby and I suppose it adds a little interest finding the hidden containers – as long as you don’t lose the contents. We could see the Dragon’s Back looming up ahead, but not before we crossed some boggy pasture....and the ladies talked. We had the camera ready for any slips & trips, but nobody hit the deck today. The initial path dropped down the south side of Chrome Hill, losing a little height before cutting back up a steep little rise to reach the crest of the ridge – and the ladies stopped talking.....but not for long, as I said to Paul ‘how do they breathe?’. As we ascended Chrome Hill all of the walkers we had seen earlier finally started to descend from the summit – 11 of them all in a row. There was a lovely glow about the landscape now, and it was an impressive sight looking along the flank of the hills.

The flank of Chrome Hill with Parkhouse Hill beyond

Looking back down the spine of Chrome Hill

A little peep hole

We all had that warm fuzzy feeling

The very distinct shape owes its origins to being Reef Limestone, with the surrounding softer rocks eroded away leaving this spiky spine. It was great fun to walk up with the North side being steeper, with a fair old drop from the top. There was a rock arch about ¾ of the way up – a nice shelter if you need it, or a frame for a picture. Up on the summit of Chrome Hill we had great views all around and back to East Sterndale at the start of the route. In fact it was so nice to be up there that Robbo forgot to look for his Geocache. I took a rubbish group shot as the camera just focussed on the grass in front of the camera, leaving us all of a blur.

Hollins Hill to the left and High Edge to the right

Parkhouse Hill ahead, Earl Sterndale to the left

It was a steep grassy slope off the top of Chrome Hill

However what goes up must come down and the route off Chrome Hill was steep and grassy, but again nobody slipped – which is a good thing. Up ahead looking slightly more sinister was Parkhouse Hill, with an inviting pinnacle to scale at the base of the hill. A big buzzard was hovering overhead, but never near enough for a decent shot – camera not gun. One thing about Parkhouse Hill is that you get up there pretty quickly – it’s steep. As we approached the hill memories came flooding back of me as an 8 year old thinking no way I’m going up there. But today we decided to have a little climb of the pinnacle. It was too slippery to go up the front side, so we nipped around the back and climbed up from there. There was a good view from the top, but not much room and a bit windy – well it was a bit of a drop!

Parkhouse Hill, the little pinnacle is at the base

Our route had been the other side of the hill up Dowel Dale

Parkhouse Hill looming large

I met a couple coming down the hill, she sat hugging the ground, he telling me about walking all the welsh 3000footers – she was like me all those years ago, just wanting to reach ground level. This was turning out to be a wonderful little walk with great views back to Chrome Hill. We had a butty stop once we had reached the summit, except for the second walk running (that doesn’t sound right – walking/running) Brain of Britain didn’t pack any rations. In my defence I thought we were going to eat in the pub afterwards. So I kept some distance between myself and Mrs RP, and Robbo kindly offered a squashed roll, and Paul an energy bar. I just settled for some Jellytots. In the meantime Robbo remembered his second Geocache, but it only turned out to be a small one with a paper roll and small badge in it. Up went the cry ‘oh no I’ve dropped it’. So looking down the vertiginous grass slope I offered to go down and fetch it – only the ‘it’ wasn’t a roll of paper, it was a crust of bread. Up went the cry ‘ it’s OK...it’s in my pocket’ and Paul had a good laugh again, but at least Robbo finished the day in one piece this time – see here for our last adventure - http://ramblingpetewalks.blogspot.com/2009/10/nantlle-ridge-cwm-ciprwtht.html

The pinnacle with Chrome Hill in the background

The view from the top, looking back at Chrome Hill

Robbo and his cache

The Dove valley – way before it gets to Dove Dale

There were fine views down the Dove valley and up ahead on Hitter Hill there was a line of old mining along a mineral vein. Apparently there are some deep caves going into the sides of these hills, and down below this are some faint old ridge and furrow patterns. It was very steep coming down off the end of Parkhouse Hill and Mrs Cogstar decided to use five points of contact for the descent, and again nobody slipped. We returned to East Sterndale by the same route over Hitter Hill, and behind us Parkhouse Hill bathed in sunshine...the ladies chatted on. So we didn’t go into the Quiet Woman Inn as we wouldn’t have passed the trades description act. It was off with the boots and muddy overtrousers to have a pint and a chat, before saying our goodbyes to some great company and it was delightful to have the ladies along with us – my ears have stopped ringing now.

5 points of contact coming down Parkhouse Hill

The farm at Glutton Grange – our route was up to the right

Looking back to Parkhouse Hill

The old grey phone box

We popped into the local craft centre/cafe for a not so good lunch – I’ll bring sandwiches next time. We drove back along the road and there beside a few houses was a grey telephone box and the road to Axe Edge and Flash – a happy day, happy memories.

Martindale

Around the head of Martindale

15th November 2009

Map: Landranger 90

Weather: Low cloud for the first half, lifting later to walk in some sunshine

From the base of Hallin Fell (near to Ullswater), walk up Beda Fell to the head of the ridge at Angletarn Pikes, around the tarn and up to Brock Crags, up to Rest Dodd and down and up to The Knott, around to Rampsgill Head and onto High Raise. Along the Roman road to Red Crag and then onto to Loadpot Hill. Followed by a knee crunching decent down to Howtown and back to the start: 13.4 miles by Satmap Active 10 gps

Copyright OS-Click on map to enlarge, then hit the back button to return to blog

The not so magnificent seven met up at Martindale Church at 08:30 amidst Lakeland fells cloaked with gloom. Low cloud had been forecast and for once they were correct, but it also forecast some sunshine later on. It was remembrance Sunday today, but there was plenty of room in the car park – maybe the local vicar thought it was a month of Sundays when he saw us all, but alas we had other things to do as we heathens got suited and booted for a wet day. It was a fairly gentle start as we strode out along the road through the hamlet. We passed a huge red telephone box that must have been the inspiration for Dr Who’s tardis, because from where we looked it was bigger than the bungalow next to it – well certainly bigger than the porch. Shortly after this we passed by another small chapel; presumably it predates the bigger church back further along the valley. There were some interesting looking old stone crosses in the churchyard, but we didn’t have time for a mooch around.

The older church with Steel Knotts behind

Past the sheds, we head up through the bracken

The view up Martindale to The Nab

On our way up below the Nickles

Up ahead of us the hillside was resplendent in red bracken above the green fields, a green/red/grey aspect – not as good as a green/red/blue one. We couldn’t see the head of the valley as it was covered with murk, but the Nab (our short return route option) was peeking through the low clouds. We left the road after a mile or so just past Knicklethorns and went steeply up the side of the Nickles Beda Fell, zigzagging as we got higher. Here I assumed my rightful position at the back of the field in the usual hare and tortoise walk – I blame my lack of progress on my poor hill legs, preserving my fruit pastilles and photography. We reached the ridge as several of the group ploughed on ahead, and we had good views back down to Hallin Fell with its unfeasibly large protuberance – summit cairn. Ullswater was stretching away in a silver line in the distance, but it wasn’t long before we disappeared into the gloom.

Looking down to Winter Crag with Ullswater beyond

The magnificent seven…..

Up into the gloom

That’s Angle Tarn from below the Pikes

The long trudge up the spine of Beda Fell took us past several cairns marking the route up to Low Brock Crags and Beda Fell. The faster members of the group kindly waited for us to catch up, and we posed for a picture before we got too knackered - when I say ‘we’, I mean ‘I’ of course. Some of us had got up early today to make this meet, but it didn’t stop them from making good headway. We continued steadily upwards passing over Beda Fell Knott, with the next stop at Angletarn Pikes. Paul from Worksop told me that the major industry of the town – beside Lee Westwood the golfer – is a massive sandwich factory. In fact I think he was a tester/taster as he seemed to be steadily grazing away on sandwiches as we made our way to the top. Today was a good route for bagging some Wainwrights, so we made sure to pass all the tops even if the path didn’t take us there. Up towards Angletarn Pikes it was very misty, so we followed the GPS and zigzagged up to the top.

The magic gate’s owner….Cogstar

A brief glimpse back to Rest Dodd from The Knott

Kidsty Pike is up there in the gloom

The cloud peeling away from High Street

Once there we followed Cogstar on a path that would lead us on towards Brock Crags. He proceeded to regale anyone who was listening about some sort of magical gateway to the next Wainwright. In my defence of our wanderings, I thought Paul said ‘follow Pete’s GPS’, so we plodded off the path across tussocky, reedy, boggy patches. After a short detour we arrived on top of Brock Crags, and ticked off another top. But to be honest it looked much the same as the other tops, and we couldn’t even see Angle Tarn as we walked above and around the water. Off the top of Brock Crags we followed the slight ridge down and back to the main path. Out of the mist, just like an episode of Stargate, appeared a gateway – local knowledge is a wondrous thing, and thank goodness Paul didn’t extract a toll for passing through. At this point on the route we should have been gasping at the magnificent views, instead of gasping up to the next Wainwright – Rest Dodd. Here was an escape point down to the Nab, but thankfully we weren’t that brittle – but whoever named Rest Dodd had a warped sense of humour. So after muttering those fateful words – ‘there’s not much more from here’ – down we went before the final big up of the day. The final ascent of note was up the flank of the Knott, and steep it was.

The route down to the Nab over the valley

The view to the East from Red Crag down to Bampton Common

We were halfway round the walk at 6 1/2 miles, and nearly all of that was uphill. Never has a lunch stop been more eagerly anticipated, with a flask full of hot soup and some chicken\mango chutney rolls – delicious. Cue for Brain of Britain – ‘err – where are my sandwiches?’ – answer – in the boot of the car. Paul kindly offered me a choice of ham or cheese or both. The ham was delicious as were the fruit pastilles dispensed earlier in the day – how could I ever have doubted his magic gate? We had one or two glimpses back towards Rest Dodd, but the cloud swirled in again. From here we should have had magnificent views down over Haweswater and to the north up Martindale. The temperature had dropped to 3 or 4 degrees, and it was cold enough to snow further East from us. It was nice to hang around the top in sweaty clothes, so we didn’t stay long and I soon had cold hands. As we left the top of The Knott most of the remaining route was a little gentler with one or two slight ascents. There were still no views available to us as we walked up to High Raise, but as we dropped down from the summit of another Wainwright the cloud ahead started to peel off the side of the hill along High Street -ahead of us were Raven Howe and Red Crag.

In the clear now we all gazed over the opening vista

Waiting for any weakness?

The view from Wether Hill

Hellvelyn is in the distance, behind Beda Fell and The Nab

As we watched we knew it was only a matter of time before we saw blue skies clearing from the East. We could see over to the Pennines which had a fresh dusting of snow on Burton Fell. Our spirits lifted with the clouds and before you could say a pantomime ‘it’s behind you’ – Hellvelyn and Catstye Cam started to go in and out of cloud cover. The Nab was revealed as the cloud continued to drift away, and behind us we had views of the Rest Dodd and The Knott and realised how high we had walked today. It is really a fabulous place up there on High Street when the views are cloud free. Up ahead the cloud continued to clear and two Ravens appeared on the fence at Raven Howe – how did they know? They were probably waiting for road kill on the High Street. By the time we reached Wether Hill we could gaze down over Ullswater and Hallin Fell, and still spent plenty of time gazing back into the sun over Hellvellyn.

Looking back up High Street to High Raise in the distance

We could nearly see Hellvellyn

On our way down from Loadpot Hill – Blencathra in the distance

Still a bit gloomy at the head of the valley

It was fairly wet underfoot, but we were well togged up with gaiters and we all came back with dry feet – nobody disappeared to any great extent. The final Wainwright of the day was Loadpot Hill, and as it has a trig point we would know when we got there. Paul had finished munching his sandwiches by now, and he did well today considering he has not walked long distances for a while – mind you he has youth on his side. Now we were at the end of our high level route it was time to drop down back to the valley of Fusedale – I knew it would be steep and it was. We could see the church at Martinstown far below and Steel Knotts across the valley. Mountain Mike made for a hot trot down the steep slope, closely followed by Cogstar Paul. He was later shown a yellow card for diving – twice apparently – he should have been sent off! The path down the scarp wasn’t so bad, just grassy and occasionally very slippery. The Ullswater steamer was at the jetty at Howstown and I heard the skipper thinking – ‘just let them get a bit closer before we leave’. It gently glided away, with a v shaped wake across the still waters. Further to the north Blencathra and Skiddaw put in an appearance in the evening sun, and we stopped to listen to the silence – not a sound – very peaceful and relaxing.

The steamer pulls away from Howtown below Hallin Fell

Looking back up the steep route down

The view up Fusedale

Ullswater with Howtown down to the right

Back at the start at the bigger church

As we reached the valley floor we had a view up Fusedale to the Nab, but the tops were still covered. It was a short uphill walk from here at Steel End, in the fading light, returning to Martindale Church where all was quiet – even a quick jaunt up to Hallin Fell couldn’t tempt us. It was great company all the way around today and we retired to the pub for a well earned pint. Only one for the road but it went down well –